A Weekend at Capella Ubud, Bali
“„Sleeping amidst the sounds of the jungle here is part of the magic – an experience that feels once-in-a-lifetime, even for someone who grew up in the mountains and slept with open windows.“”
Recently, the TV show White Lotus sparked a real hype across the luxury hospitality industry. Ever since, it’s no longer enough for hotels and resorts to be merely Instagrammable and photogenic – they now need to exude that certain "White Lotus Vibe". If a film crew were ever to search for a Bali episode, there would be only one place that makes sense: Capella Ubud.
This is not just the most fascinating property I have ever stayed at. Even the pictures, with their misty atmosphere and the fog curling around the property, evoke a dreamlike sensation. A glance at the hotel’s website alone already gives you the feeling that this stay will be anything but an ordinary hotel experience. If, like me, you have never been to Bali before, you will be surprised by the diversity of landscapes the island offers. When we landed, the surroundings reminded us of Thailand or Vietnam, but as we headed towards Ubud, we were soon immersed in the deepest jungle, with steep hills and winding roads. At a completely unexpected spot, our Grab driver turned left, entering a tunnel formed entirely by hanging trees. Our names were checked at the entrance before we were allowed to drive into this hidden paradise. A narrow, paved road led us through vibrant rice fields until we reached the arrival pavilion, where a group of smiling bellmen awaited us. They opened our car doors, handled the luggage, and guided us to the lobby pavilion, setting the tone for the exceptional stay that lay ahead.
Even though Capella Ubud is a relatively small property with just 23 tents (all rooms are actual tents!), it takes a good while to grasp the layout of the vast grounds. When we went to check-in, two friendly ladies approached us, offering a soothing back massage while we sipped a refreshing, non-alcoholic welcome drink and were handed a cooling towel. Before the charming general manager Mark personally welcomed us to the property, the attentive front desk manager swiftly handled our passport details and credit card information to complete the check-in process. We were quite fortunate: our tent was already ready by 2 pm (official check-in is at 3 pm), a rarity given the resort’s consistently high occupancy due to the limited number of tents. Each guest is offered a hiking stick for the walk to their tent – a small but delightful gesture. Designed by the legendary Bill Bensley, Capella Ubud is a tribute to the spirit of early European settlers in the 1800s – when Bali was first discovered. Each room is a real tent, blending luxury with nature while keeping the environmental footprint minimal. Every tree was preserved, creating a magical setting that feels authentic and respectful to its surroundings. Imagine candlelight, oil lamps, and dimmed lighting everywhere, giving the whole place the aura of a bygone explorer’s world. We immediately felt like adventurers ourselves – until we reached the breathtaking luxury of our accommodation.
As a fun fact: we were assigned the Librarian Tent – an entry-level category called Terrace Tent. I found that walking everywhere was manageable, although a 24/7 buggy service is available on demand. Our tent was only accessible via a suspension bridge, which made the whole adventure even more special. Speaking of views, most tents overlook the lush rainforest, accompanied by the authentic sounds of the jungle. I’m no stranger to sleeping in a rainforest, yet I was grateful that the Librarian Tent at Capella Ubud was worlds apart from the rustic lodge I once stayed at along the Amazon River in Peru. Sleeping amidst the sounds of the jungle here is part of the magic – an experience that feels once-in-a-lifetime, even for someone like me who grew up in the mountains and often slept with open windows. Despite being a tent without rigid walls, we certainly didn’t have to forgo luxury amenities. As a proud member of Leading Hotels of the World, Capella Bali’s tents are outfitted with the finest comforts one could wish for. Rarely have I experienced bedding and pillows as soft and cocooning – my two nights here were truly restorative. If you don’t manage to secure the one and only Two-Bedroom Tent, don’t worry: all other tents share the same generous indoor space and thoughtful layout.
Upon entering the tent, a cozy seating area greets you on the right, complete with a sofa, an armchair, and a coffee table. On the one side, a stylish sideboard holds a coffee machine, a kettle, complimentary water, and homemade cookies (which were heavenly!), plus salty snacks (available for an extra charge) and a selection of teas. There’s also a beautiful book featuring Leading Hotels of the World, along with a personal welcome note and a fresh fruit basket. he other side consisted of the massive minibar (or should I say fridge box), that had a very good selection of wines and champagne, spirits as well as complimentary soft drinks and beer. There was even a red wine fridge next to it, should you feel like opening a bottle of Bordeaux on your private pool. Behind the double canopy bed, ample wardrobe space awaits, with handy suitcase racks placed at the top of the shelves for easy access. Right when you enter the bathroom, there are two spaces to hang clothes. Continuing the tour: the bathroom is a true highlight. Since there are no real curtains, but rather three layers of fabric (a net to keep insects out, a blackout layer, and a decorative outer layer for privacy), you feel wonderfully sheltered while still aware you’re inside a tent. Remember, being in a tent means that certain activities might be better saved for a hotel with more solid walls – if you know what I mean.
Capella Ubud also deliberately refrains from placing Bluetooth speakers or TVs in the tents, encouraging guests to fully embrace the sounds of nature. Out of respect for the environment and fellow guests, we kept our volume low too – though I did allow myself to sing a little while enjoying the fantastic outdoor jungle shower each morning. Waking up to the warm, humid scent of the rainforest and stepping into the open-air shower was a joy that felt grounding and deeply refreshing. For those who prefer a bit more enclosure, there’s also a beautiful indoor shower, as well as a deep, chic copper bathtub. The toilet is placed discreetly behind a curtain next to the bathtub – meaning this setup is best enjoyed with a loved one or a close friend. On the opposite side of the bathroom, two generous sinks provide enough space for couples to get ready at the same time, a real luxury in a tent setting. A special shout-out goes to housekeeping: the team does an outstanding job maintaining spotless spaces despite the jungle environment. I adored the fluffy towels, the thoughtful choice of locally sourced toiletries, and the broad selection of various hand soaps. The tents are so well thought out that you feel at home the moment you step inside – making every dollar spent here feel worth it.
Our favorite spot in the whole resort was The Cistern – Capella Ubud’s stunning outdoor infinity pool and pool bar. Service here, just like everywhere else at the camp, is absolutely impeccable. Staff remembered not only our names but also our tent’s name, making everything feel deeply personal. Upon arriving at the Cistern, the team would instantly set up loungers for us, hang up our clothes, and provide cold water and complimentary snacks without even having to ask. Even though initially they didn't quite understand why we wanted a full wine list by the pool, they quickly organized everything, and soon we were sipping bottles of wine while basking in the tropical sun. The 20-meter-long pool is a dream: heated to the perfect temperature for both cooling off and relaxing. Due to its unique shape and setting among tall palm trees, the pool looks different at every time of day: shimmering like the sea in the morning light and transforming into a paradise lagoon by the afternoon.
When it comes to culinary experiences, Capella Bali sets the bar incredibly high. On our first evening, we indulged in their legendary Omakase-style menu at Api Jiwa – and let me tell you, it deserved at least two Michelin stars. The chef's passion for local ingredients and authentic Balinese cuisine was palpable with every bite. At about 100 USD per person, the meal offered fantastic value, especially compared to similar gourmet experiences elsewhere. For a more casual dining option, the main restaurant Mads Lange sits just one floor above Api Jiwa. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, it offers a mix of Western and Indonesian dishes. We dined here on our second evening and were amazed by the portion sizes – honestly, sharing a starter and each ordering a main dish would have been more than enough. We skipped dessert that night because we knew there were delicious cookies waiting for us back in the tent. Later, we were surprised by an early birthday cake, a lovely gesture ahead of my actual birthday on check-out day.
Another welcoming feature of Capella Ubud is the Living Room at the Officer’s Tent, which serves as a luxurious club lounge. Here, guests gather for complimentary afternoon tea and evening cocktails with canapés, making it easy to skip lunch and save some appetite for the wonderful dinners. Afternoon Tea is served on a stylish étagère with sweet and savory delights, while the evening canapés are displayed on a small buffet that changes daily. During our visits, the staff made us feel like friends, encouraging us to join a round of billiards or offering insider tips for excursions around Ubud. The cocktails were prepared fresh at the bar – tasting every bit as sophisticated as in any upscale city bar. When you book a tent at Capella Ubud, an array of thoughtful inclusions come with it: Four pieces of complimentary laundry per day (per person), a welcome duffle bag filled with essentials (sunscreen, disinfectant spray, and wipes), filtered water and soft drinks from the minibar (including beer!), shuttle service to Ubud center, and access to mountain bikes for independent adventures. Additionally, guests can participate in the hotel's weekly activities.
One highlight is the morning jog through the rice fields with Mark, the delightful general manager, who not only leads a remarkably trained team but also shares fascinating insights into Indonesian culture and heritage.
Before I forget: the complimentary breakfast at Mads Lange is another highlight not to be missed.
Served almost entirely à la carte with only a small buffet, the breakfast experience here is worth getting up for. The menu is extensive, and the lovely staff encourage you to order multiple dishes if you like. I enjoyed some of the best scrambled eggs I’ve ever tasted, served on homemade butter brioche, followed by a toasted avocado sourdough. Even classics like Eggs Benedict were reinterpreted with a unique, delightful twist. Nothing was missing here – it was a breakfast experience I will remember for a very long time. Capella Ubud is one of those rare properties where two or three nights feel perfect: one night simply isn’t enough to soak up the peaceful jungle surroundings, while more than three might make the camp feel a little too small. The intimate size of the camp also fosters a natural sense of community. We met several fascinating fellow travelers and even ended up joining some tours together. Without a doubt, Capella Ubud has secured a place among our Top 10 hotels ever – and thanks to its singular charm, it will remain forever in our hearts. Worth the splurge? A resounding yes. If you find yourself in Bali, don’t think twice – book it. What are you even waiting for?
